Love Help
Love me tender
One of the joys of this time of year is the arrival of spring lamb. These lambs are born in the autumn and sold the following spring, having suckled first on their mothers’ milk and then put out to graze in the sweet, rich grass of late winter/early spring. Their flesh is paler and more tender and juicy than older lamb. It is best served simply to appreciate its flavour – grilled on a barbecue or roasted in the oven, allowing its sweet flesh to shine.
Spring lamb is a little more expensive than older lamb and sometimes difficult to find, due to its huge demand, but I think it is well worth seeking out – try asking your butcher to order some in.
Roast leg of lamb with rosemary, garlic and anchovy
As strange as it may seem, anchovy and lamb is a wonderful combination. The salty intense flavour of anchovies is lovely with the tender, slightly sweet flavour of spring lamb. I first came across this recipe many years ago in Roast Chicken and Other Stories by Simon Hopkinson (Ebury, £12). It is one of my very favourite cookbooks and I turn to it time and time again when I am in need of inspiration. I love this lamb served with slow-cooked courgettes that have been laced with olive oil and garlic.
Serves six
2kg/4lb leg of lamb, trimmed of most of its outer layer of fat
6 anchovy fillets
6 cloves of garlic, peeled and cut in half lengthwise
1 bunch of rosemary, torn into sprigs
100g/31/2oz unsalted butter
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Heat the oven to 200C/400F/Gas6. Place the lamb on a board and, using a sharp knife, pierce half-inch pockets on its surface. Tear the anchovies in half. In each pocket, place a sliver of garlic, an anchovy and a sprig of rosemary. Rub all over with the butter and season with salt and pepper. Cover with foil and place on the middle shelf of the oven. Roast for 30 minutes then remove the foil, turn the heat to 180C/350F/ Gas4 and cook for a further 45 minutes. Turn off the oven and leave the door ajar. Let the lamb rest in the oven for 15 minutes. Remove, carve and serve while still warm.
Meatballs with cumin, fennel and tomato sauce
Just about everybody loves meatballs. There is something undeniably comforting and homely about them. You can make them with pork, veal or beef, but using lamb gives a very distinctive, slightly Middle Eastern flavour. These lend themselves well to roasted sweet potatoes, or rice with a generous knob of butter, and perhaps a cardamom pod or two.
Serves 6
1kg/2lb minced, organic, grass-fed lamb
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
60g/21/2oz fresh white breadcrumbs
2 cloves of garlic, peeled and very finely chopped
1 red onion, finely chopped and sweated until just translucent
1 dried red chilli, seeds in, finely chopped
A good bunch of flat-leaf parsley, leaves only, finely chopped
Salt and pepper
1 tbsp olive oil
For the tomato sauce
1 tbsp olive oil
1 tsp both cumin and fennel seeds, warmed in a pan and ground in a pestle and mortar
1 onion, finely chopped
1 dried red chilli, crumbled
2 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed
4 fresh bay leaves
A sprig of thyme
2 jars of good-quality tomatoes, chopped
Place the minced lamb in a bowl. Warm the spices in a frying pan over a low heat, until they just begin to pop. Remove from the heat and grind finely with a pestle and mortar. Add to the meat along with the breadcrumbs, garlic, onion, chilli and parsley. Mix together very well using your hands, add salt and pepper and mix once more. All the ingredients should be very well combined. Using your fingers, roll into balls about an inch in diameter. Place a large frying pan on the stove over a medium heat. Add the oil and, when hot, fry the meatballs all over until browned. It is important not to crowd the pan, so brown in several batches if necessary.
Now make the sauce. Place a heavy-based pan over a medium heat, add the oil and, when the pan is warm, add the spices along with the onion and chilli. Turn down the heat, season with a little salt and sweat gently for 15 minutes. Now add the garlic, bay leaves and thyme, stir to combine and cook for a further 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes, turn up the heat a little and cook for 15 minutes. Taste and season with a little salt and add the meatballs. Cook for 10 minutes or until the meatballs are well cooked through. The trick to make this dish really, really well is to allow it to cool to room temperature then reheat before you are ready to serve. They should be served piping hot. ‘
Grilled leg of lamb with heritage tomatoes, mint and chilli dressing
Tomatoes are just now coming into season. We grow a variety in our greenhouse with great success. The trick with tomatoes is to only pick them when really ripe, and never put them in the fridge, because their flavour diminishes greatly.
This is a simple summer dish, which is perfect cooked on a barbecue. The sauce can be made in the morning and then it is just a question of slicing the tomatoes at the very last minute.
Serves 6
1 leg of spring lamb, approx 2kg/4lb
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the dressing
1 fresh red chilli, seeds left in and finely chopped
A good pinch of salt
2 tbsp good-quality red-wine vinegar
1 generous bunch of mint, leaves only
140ml/41/2fl oz extra-virgin olive oil
To serve
5 ripe tomatoes (if possible, a selection of different varieties)
Salt and pepper
Ask your butcher to cut the lamb from the bone, into 6 pieces. It is important that you ask them to follow the muscle groups when doing so. Warm your barbecue; when the flames have died down, rub the lamb pieces with a little olive oil and season with the salt and pepper generously all over.
Lay on the barbecue and cook for 10 minutes without turning. The lamb should look slightly charred but not in any way burnt. Turn and cook the other side for a further 8-10 minutes.
Remove and allow to rest on a warm plate for at least 10 minutes. When cut, the lamb should be just pink all over. Using a sharp knife, cut each piece into three, slightly on the bias. Now slice the tomatoes and season.
While the lamb is cooking, prepare the sauce by placing the chopped chilli, a good pinch of salt and the vinegar into a bowl. Chop the mint finely, add to the other ingredients and stir well to combine. Whisk in the olive oil and, just before serving, spoon the sauce over the lamb or, alternatively, pass around separately and allow people to add their own.
Skye Gyngell is head chef at Petersham Nurseries, Church Lane, Richmond, Surrey, tel: 020 8605 3627, www.petershamnurseries.com
source: http://www.independent.co.uk/
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